Came back from Gwalior fort and started planning for Orchha. One of the immediate worries that came into mind was the need to get up early. And the other was to make arrangements for a Auto Rickshaw that would drop me at the railway station around 5:00 AM in the morning. “Das Kaku” offered to drop me in his scooter, initially I was a bit hesitant but then accepted his offer. Took out the matter that I had collected over the Internet. Had my dinner and went to bed to wake up early.
Started with Das kaku at 05:00 AM as scheduled. Kaku dropped me at Gola Ka Mandir, and from there, I took an Auto Rickshaw to Railway Station. Purchased an ordinary (Non-Super fast 38/-) and boarded “CHAMBAL EXP.” Every thing was going as scheduled in advance. Reached JHANSI around 07:50 and straightway took an Auto Rickshaw to Jhansi Bus Stand. From there reached Orchha in a Tempo.
Success at last! After a half an hour drive in a Tempo, I reached the sleepy town of Orchha, where it seems nothing has changed. It has a very medieval look with the skyline dominated with high rising spires. The whole town is devoid of any remarkable modern structure and that’s a plus point.
On my way, I saw a lot of local people making their way towards Orchha Dham, that’s what the local people call it. Later I found out that the reason was “Pukh Nakshtara.” On Pukh Nakshtara a big local Buldelkhandi crowd comes to Orchha for a holy dip in the River “Betwa.” It was Kamlapati Bhattacharya who told me about Pukh Nakshtara and much more about Orchha.
Now, how to move about? That was the immediate query in my mind. Though I had not taken the breakfast and empty stomached, I decided to visit the Chaturbhuj Temple first. Although I am not a staunch follower of god but at times I do follow some beliefs that our society has. I moved around the temple complex including the Raja ram Mandir and Chaturbhuj Mandir. But, raja ram Mandir was much more crowded and I decided to go to the ruined deserted and imposing Chaturbhuj Mandir instead.
I was struck by the mammoth size of the temple. The temple has a central spire surrounded by four smaller spires placed at the corners of a square layout. One of the smaller spires had failed in the due course of time. This temple was build by Madhukar Shah as temple for lord Ram, but it is said that Lord Ram refused to move out of Raja Ram Temple, in which he was placed for the first time.
Chaturbhuj Temple is made of Sandstone, yellowish in Colour and lime mortar. The temple is in a bad shape, in some places the stairs leading upwards are in disarray. I took some pain to climb some of them and went for a “parikrama” around the temple. Took some pictures with my sole travel mate, in B&W. I don’t know why but in the last few months I have been more inclined towards B&W photography.
Next destinations in mind were the Chhtaris of Bundela Rulers on the banks of River “Betwa.” But my empty stomach drove me to think differently. To satisfy the both, mental and physical desires, I decided to grab a packet of Potato Chips. Took a new roll and moved ahead towards the “Kanchana Ghat”, probably the best place to have a look at the magnificent Chhtaris on the other side.
Walking over the open low height bridge on Betwa was a very satisfying experience. But, when approaching the Kanchana Ghat one has to bear some real bad odor of human excreta. Though all over the place it is written that a fine of Rs. 50 will be slapped for doing such things but still we Indians do so with considerable ease. Indians as a whole love to bend, and break the rules.
As said rightly, “no gain without pain.” One can only appreciate the serene beauty of Orchha only by passing through the dirt. But, what a sight it was. The river Betwa was in full flow, the more-than-average monsoon has filled every possible pocket and left the surrounding green as ……. Can’t imagine anything.
One regret I had that I should be having a SLR camera to photograph the Chhtaris more closely. But I did the best with the resources I had. Took out the packet of Chips, had them followed by some water and completed by slow and relaxed puffs of smoke. Now, I had some more calories to burn out. Straightway headed towards the other end to have a closer view of the Chhtaris.
Made my way into the Chhtari Complex with no one at the gate. The gardeners working inside asked about the ticket. I offered them Rs. 10 to which they agreed, as I was not having the ticket. Just as I was about to move around the caretaker came, asked the same question. I told him whatever amount the ticket costs, you take from me and give me a ticket. He rather agreed to Rs. 10 as decided upon earlier with the gardener.
Like most of the Buldelkhandi People, he was very friendly. I told him about my love for historical monuments. He then unfolded the history of Orchha, though a localized version and more biased towards the kings of Orchha.
How the city was founded? Who founded it? Everything that anyone can easily get from any travel book. Then I bowled a bouncer to check his depth of knowledge. I asked him could you tell me why after around 200 years the city of Orchha was abandoned altogether. He was unable to answer but came out with a very funny (to me and not to him, all Buldelkhandi’s) answer.
The place was in shambles and disregard with smelling human waste all over the place. But, with recent initiatives from State Government, the situation has improved drastically. Now, they look much clean, sanitized, and well cared.
“Kamlapati Bhattacharya!” that was his reply, when I asked his name. I immediately asked, are you a Bengali? Bhattacharya has to be a Bengali only. He said, yes and No as well. “My forefathers moved to region many years back and today I find myself more close Buldelkhand and Bengal is something like a strange place”, he clarified.
He provided me with a lot of information about the Chhtaris, the architectural influences evident on them. On ground floor the Chhtaris have an arched gateway with has much resemble to the Mughal Style, whereas as you go up, the first floor has arched gateways that reflects the Rajput Flavour. On the top Four small domes have been put on all corners, with a central dominating Spire much bigger in size.
Having finished my thirst for history and inquired about the best way to reach “Barwa Sagar.” Kamlapati told me to take a tempo to Tigala, from there another to Barwa Sagar. When I was about to leave, I gave Kamlapati a currency note of 10. He refused to take, told me “Saab aap bhi hamare hi pranth se hai, Rehne dijiye.” But when I insisted he took it.
Slowly and surely, I moved towards the Fort palace Complex of Orchha, the most favorite destination for foreign tourists. I was in double mind whether I should devote the whole day to Orchha or should I move ahead to Barwa Sagar. At last, I decided to move around the Fort Complex first and if time permits then to go to Barwa Sagar.
Moved passed the busy Tempo stand area, and over the old 17th century granite bridge, I reached the ticket counter at Fort Complex. I took a ticket that was meant for entry to Seven Monuments in and around the Fort. These included Laxmi Temple, Chaturbhuj Temple, Chhtaris on the Betwa River Bank, Unt Khana, Rai Praveen Mahal, Raj Mahal, and Jehangir Mahal. Though I covered only Chaturbhuj Temple, Chhtaris on the Betwa River Bank, Raj Mahal, and Jehangir Mahal.
After a few steps, I was at the main entrance of Jehangir Mahal, the palace that King Bir Singh Deo passionately made for the Mughal Emperor Jehangir. It was the rebellious Bir Singh Deo, youngest son of Madhukar shah, who murdered Abul Fazl near Orchha and sends his head to Jehangir, and the Kingdom had to face the fury of the Mughal Armies. But a year later when Jehangir became the Mughal Emperor, he gifted the Kingdom of Orchha to his old friend, Bir Singh.
Bir Singh decides to make a palace to commemorate the visit of the Mughal Emperor to Orchha. And the Jehangir Mahal was made. Made of Sandstone and lime mortar mostly, this building is a perfect example of mature Buldelkhandi Architecture. Some tile work can be seen but in a very bad state. The sandstone slabs at some places needs reinforcements, immediately. The intricately carved “Jaalis” are a visual treat to the eyes. The view of the entire region through these Jaalis was something that remains in the main for a long time.
This Monument has a stark similarity with the one that Bir Singh made at Datia. But the one at Datia is in a much better shape. Go for an all round walk, as it offers a very good overall view in all directions.
Moved around the whole complex twice and took some photographs. In near vicinity was the Raj Mahal, much older than the other structures in the Fort Complex. The palace has a much sound construction as compared to the Jehangir Mahal. It is made with Sandstone, Bricks, and lime mortar. Though some part near the main gate has collapsed, but still most of the palace in intact. It has some wall painting, though not in very good shape. I climbed up to the topmost part the Mahal, and it was a mesmerising experience. By the time I reached the top, I had already exhausted all my cylinders. So I decided to take a rest followed by few puffs of Cigarette.
After the refreshing and satisfying break, I decide to explore other corners. The small “jharokha” at the front offers you the best possible view of the Chaturbhuj Temple, just in front of the Mahal. It seems that the time has not moved a single second; the whole town has a charismatic medieval temple town look. I was thinking about how the things might have been?
The abandonment of Orchha because of the persistent Mughal threats and foundation of a new city at Tikamgarh. How, the thing actually happened, how difficult it would have been for the Bundelas to leave a place where they had lived for around 200 years; crowned it with temples, and palaces. And all of sudden leaving the whole to the jungle and settling somewhere else. It must have been a very difficult decision.
What happened in the following years was something that I wanted to know but failed to get the information. How the palaces, Chhtaris and temples were taken care of? This is something that generates the same amount of curiosity as why the Khmer people abandoned Angkor? I was in a different world, thinking of what life used to be in the days when the Bundelas were at their peak, may be during the times of Bir Singh Deo.
Went down by those dusty irregular, and in some places broken stairs. And now the chips that I had in the morning had already delivered what they could have deliver. I was in an urgent need for some food. Straightway went to Sheesh Mahal Palace, in the fort complex only, ordered Chicken Do pyaja + Veg. Pulao. While waiting for the same, wrote down some of my observations.
Having enjoyed the last bite of the fate less chicken, I decided to go to Barwa Sagar. There was no sound logic for that but I thought that it’s better to explore a new place. And I had no time to cover all the remaining monuments that were scattered, so I decided to come to Orchha again for a closer and comprehensive look.
Walked along the old bridge over the moat surrounding the fort and reached the Tempo Stand. Took a Tempo to Tigala, the 15-20 minute ride was a different experience. The tempo was packed to the maximum that is what I thought. But, “No” the driver was having totally differing views. He waited some more and made them sit. I was in the front cabin along side the Driver. Before starting, he poured in a packet of “Gutkha” into his mouth, and started. Just as we passed by the Raja Ram Temple, nearly everyone except me touched his or her forehead.
As the tempo was moving along the badly patched infamous roads of Madhya Pradesh, the local women in the back started singing in Buldelkhandi. It was something beyond my reach, the lyrics and the Rhythm. And there was a fall, all of sudden! Just as our tempo was about to cross the Railway Line, the barrier fell. I had only one option, just to wait while the ladies continued with their local songs. The driver asked us all to pay the money, but who is listening anyway? They were completely lost to the music and flow. After some harsh shouts the driver recovered his money from them.
I reached Tigala, and took one more Tempo to Barwa Sagar. Got down at Jarai Ka Math on the way to Barwa Sagar. Had some arguments with the ASI Monument Attendant at the gate and entered the Complex. It was great, suddenly I had a feeling that the credit, we bestow upon the Mughals for developing Indian Architecture is not worthy. In fact the temples from 8th –11th century are much more rich in designs, carvings and details. The temples from Pratihara period those, which escape the wrath of Muslim invaders, scattered all around North India, are “Masterpiece Creations.”
Jarai Ka Math is also made during the Pratihara Period in the 9th Century. It has boundary around the temple, built at the same time as the temple. The carvings on the outer walls are a pure visual treat and testimony of the artisan’s mastery of the art. Though the inside cannot be approached, I satisfied myself by clicking some pictures from outside and headed for Barwa Sagar.
A few tempos passed by but no one stopped, as there was none other than me, standing alone along a speedy highway. At last, I managed to get a Tractor that dropped me at Barwa Sagar. Since I was alone and new to the place, I decided to take an Auto Rickshaw rather than to explore the place myself. The “Auto Wallah” asked me whether I had come to Barwa Sagar a few days back. We moved towards the “Jharna” that’s how the lake is known here. Barwa Sagar Lake is an artificial lake created by the orders of Bundela King Udit Singh. Overlooking the lake is a fort, one of the many build by the Bundelas. Though I had come to Barwa Sagar for my special love towards forts, but the caretaker denied me an entry. That fellow had locked the main gate and was moving somewhere else in the fort. I tried my best to catch his attention, “Chaukidaar”….. “Chaukidaar”….. but with no gains.
At last I decided to take some photographs in the fading light, and then moved towards the lake. Took some other pictures, and decided to call off the day. But, again when I went near the Fort Gate, on my way back, I just failed to control my temptation. ….. “Chaukidaar”….. “Chaukidaar”….. Again the enigmatic silence was broken by my desirous shouts to see the fort from inside. “Okay, something must remain for the next visit”, this is what I told myself, and went straightway to the Bus Stand.
What drove me to Barwa Sagar was a photograph taken by Deen Dayal, way back in 1882 for a collection “Views of places proposed to be visited by Their Excellencies Lord & Lady Curzon during Autumn Tour 1902”. I don’t know whether Curzon and his wife actually made their way to Barwa Sagar. But, if they skipped Barwa Sagar for any other well-known and celebrated place, then it was definitely a loss for them.
The place has changed very little; to know how it looked like in those days, just have a look. And, now just compare this with the photographs that I have taken, after about 122 years. One would definitely say, “Nothing has really changed” and it is a fact. This sleepy village with feeble population has not wakened up yet.
Started with Das kaku at 05:00 AM as scheduled. Kaku dropped me at Gola Ka Mandir, and from there, I took an Auto Rickshaw to Railway Station. Purchased an ordinary (Non-Super fast 38/-) and boarded “CHAMBAL EXP.” Every thing was going as scheduled in advance. Reached JHANSI around 07:50 and straightway took an Auto Rickshaw to Jhansi Bus Stand. From there reached Orchha in a Tempo.
Success at last! After a half an hour drive in a Tempo, I reached the sleepy town of Orchha, where it seems nothing has changed. It has a very medieval look with the skyline dominated with high rising spires. The whole town is devoid of any remarkable modern structure and that’s a plus point.
On my way, I saw a lot of local people making their way towards Orchha Dham, that’s what the local people call it. Later I found out that the reason was “Pukh Nakshtara.” On Pukh Nakshtara a big local Buldelkhandi crowd comes to Orchha for a holy dip in the River “Betwa.” It was Kamlapati Bhattacharya who told me about Pukh Nakshtara and much more about Orchha.
Now, how to move about? That was the immediate query in my mind. Though I had not taken the breakfast and empty stomached, I decided to visit the Chaturbhuj Temple first. Although I am not a staunch follower of god but at times I do follow some beliefs that our society has. I moved around the temple complex including the Raja ram Mandir and Chaturbhuj Mandir. But, raja ram Mandir was much more crowded and I decided to go to the ruined deserted and imposing Chaturbhuj Mandir instead.
I was struck by the mammoth size of the temple. The temple has a central spire surrounded by four smaller spires placed at the corners of a square layout. One of the smaller spires had failed in the due course of time. This temple was build by Madhukar Shah as temple for lord Ram, but it is said that Lord Ram refused to move out of Raja Ram Temple, in which he was placed for the first time.
Chaturbhuj Temple is made of Sandstone, yellowish in Colour and lime mortar. The temple is in a bad shape, in some places the stairs leading upwards are in disarray. I took some pain to climb some of them and went for a “parikrama” around the temple. Took some pictures with my sole travel mate, in B&W. I don’t know why but in the last few months I have been more inclined towards B&W photography.
Next destinations in mind were the Chhtaris of Bundela Rulers on the banks of River “Betwa.” But my empty stomach drove me to think differently. To satisfy the both, mental and physical desires, I decided to grab a packet of Potato Chips. Took a new roll and moved ahead towards the “Kanchana Ghat”, probably the best place to have a look at the magnificent Chhtaris on the other side.
Walking over the open low height bridge on Betwa was a very satisfying experience. But, when approaching the Kanchana Ghat one has to bear some real bad odor of human excreta. Though all over the place it is written that a fine of Rs. 50 will be slapped for doing such things but still we Indians do so with considerable ease. Indians as a whole love to bend, and break the rules.
As said rightly, “no gain without pain.” One can only appreciate the serene beauty of Orchha only by passing through the dirt. But, what a sight it was. The river Betwa was in full flow, the more-than-average monsoon has filled every possible pocket and left the surrounding green as ……. Can’t imagine anything.
One regret I had that I should be having a SLR camera to photograph the Chhtaris more closely. But I did the best with the resources I had. Took out the packet of Chips, had them followed by some water and completed by slow and relaxed puffs of smoke. Now, I had some more calories to burn out. Straightway headed towards the other end to have a closer view of the Chhtaris.
Made my way into the Chhtari Complex with no one at the gate. The gardeners working inside asked about the ticket. I offered them Rs. 10 to which they agreed, as I was not having the ticket. Just as I was about to move around the caretaker came, asked the same question. I told him whatever amount the ticket costs, you take from me and give me a ticket. He rather agreed to Rs. 10 as decided upon earlier with the gardener.
Like most of the Buldelkhandi People, he was very friendly. I told him about my love for historical monuments. He then unfolded the history of Orchha, though a localized version and more biased towards the kings of Orchha.
How the city was founded? Who founded it? Everything that anyone can easily get from any travel book. Then I bowled a bouncer to check his depth of knowledge. I asked him could you tell me why after around 200 years the city of Orchha was abandoned altogether. He was unable to answer but came out with a very funny (to me and not to him, all Buldelkhandi’s) answer.
The place was in shambles and disregard with smelling human waste all over the place. But, with recent initiatives from State Government, the situation has improved drastically. Now, they look much clean, sanitized, and well cared.
“Kamlapati Bhattacharya!” that was his reply, when I asked his name. I immediately asked, are you a Bengali? Bhattacharya has to be a Bengali only. He said, yes and No as well. “My forefathers moved to region many years back and today I find myself more close Buldelkhand and Bengal is something like a strange place”, he clarified.
He provided me with a lot of information about the Chhtaris, the architectural influences evident on them. On ground floor the Chhtaris have an arched gateway with has much resemble to the Mughal Style, whereas as you go up, the first floor has arched gateways that reflects the Rajput Flavour. On the top Four small domes have been put on all corners, with a central dominating Spire much bigger in size.
Having finished my thirst for history and inquired about the best way to reach “Barwa Sagar.” Kamlapati told me to take a tempo to Tigala, from there another to Barwa Sagar. When I was about to leave, I gave Kamlapati a currency note of 10. He refused to take, told me “Saab aap bhi hamare hi pranth se hai, Rehne dijiye.” But when I insisted he took it.
Slowly and surely, I moved towards the Fort palace Complex of Orchha, the most favorite destination for foreign tourists. I was in double mind whether I should devote the whole day to Orchha or should I move ahead to Barwa Sagar. At last, I decided to move around the Fort Complex first and if time permits then to go to Barwa Sagar.
Moved passed the busy Tempo stand area, and over the old 17th century granite bridge, I reached the ticket counter at Fort Complex. I took a ticket that was meant for entry to Seven Monuments in and around the Fort. These included Laxmi Temple, Chaturbhuj Temple, Chhtaris on the Betwa River Bank, Unt Khana, Rai Praveen Mahal, Raj Mahal, and Jehangir Mahal. Though I covered only Chaturbhuj Temple, Chhtaris on the Betwa River Bank, Raj Mahal, and Jehangir Mahal.
After a few steps, I was at the main entrance of Jehangir Mahal, the palace that King Bir Singh Deo passionately made for the Mughal Emperor Jehangir. It was the rebellious Bir Singh Deo, youngest son of Madhukar shah, who murdered Abul Fazl near Orchha and sends his head to Jehangir, and the Kingdom had to face the fury of the Mughal Armies. But a year later when Jehangir became the Mughal Emperor, he gifted the Kingdom of Orchha to his old friend, Bir Singh.
Bir Singh decides to make a palace to commemorate the visit of the Mughal Emperor to Orchha. And the Jehangir Mahal was made. Made of Sandstone and lime mortar mostly, this building is a perfect example of mature Buldelkhandi Architecture. Some tile work can be seen but in a very bad state. The sandstone slabs at some places needs reinforcements, immediately. The intricately carved “Jaalis” are a visual treat to the eyes. The view of the entire region through these Jaalis was something that remains in the main for a long time.
This Monument has a stark similarity with the one that Bir Singh made at Datia. But the one at Datia is in a much better shape. Go for an all round walk, as it offers a very good overall view in all directions.
Moved around the whole complex twice and took some photographs. In near vicinity was the Raj Mahal, much older than the other structures in the Fort Complex. The palace has a much sound construction as compared to the Jehangir Mahal. It is made with Sandstone, Bricks, and lime mortar. Though some part near the main gate has collapsed, but still most of the palace in intact. It has some wall painting, though not in very good shape. I climbed up to the topmost part the Mahal, and it was a mesmerising experience. By the time I reached the top, I had already exhausted all my cylinders. So I decided to take a rest followed by few puffs of Cigarette.
After the refreshing and satisfying break, I decide to explore other corners. The small “jharokha” at the front offers you the best possible view of the Chaturbhuj Temple, just in front of the Mahal. It seems that the time has not moved a single second; the whole town has a charismatic medieval temple town look. I was thinking about how the things might have been?
The abandonment of Orchha because of the persistent Mughal threats and foundation of a new city at Tikamgarh. How, the thing actually happened, how difficult it would have been for the Bundelas to leave a place where they had lived for around 200 years; crowned it with temples, and palaces. And all of sudden leaving the whole to the jungle and settling somewhere else. It must have been a very difficult decision.
What happened in the following years was something that I wanted to know but failed to get the information. How the palaces, Chhtaris and temples were taken care of? This is something that generates the same amount of curiosity as why the Khmer people abandoned Angkor? I was in a different world, thinking of what life used to be in the days when the Bundelas were at their peak, may be during the times of Bir Singh Deo.
Went down by those dusty irregular, and in some places broken stairs. And now the chips that I had in the morning had already delivered what they could have deliver. I was in an urgent need for some food. Straightway went to Sheesh Mahal Palace, in the fort complex only, ordered Chicken Do pyaja + Veg. Pulao. While waiting for the same, wrote down some of my observations.
Having enjoyed the last bite of the fate less chicken, I decided to go to Barwa Sagar. There was no sound logic for that but I thought that it’s better to explore a new place. And I had no time to cover all the remaining monuments that were scattered, so I decided to come to Orchha again for a closer and comprehensive look.
Walked along the old bridge over the moat surrounding the fort and reached the Tempo Stand. Took a Tempo to Tigala, the 15-20 minute ride was a different experience. The tempo was packed to the maximum that is what I thought. But, “No” the driver was having totally differing views. He waited some more and made them sit. I was in the front cabin along side the Driver. Before starting, he poured in a packet of “Gutkha” into his mouth, and started. Just as we passed by the Raja Ram Temple, nearly everyone except me touched his or her forehead.
As the tempo was moving along the badly patched infamous roads of Madhya Pradesh, the local women in the back started singing in Buldelkhandi. It was something beyond my reach, the lyrics and the Rhythm. And there was a fall, all of sudden! Just as our tempo was about to cross the Railway Line, the barrier fell. I had only one option, just to wait while the ladies continued with their local songs. The driver asked us all to pay the money, but who is listening anyway? They were completely lost to the music and flow. After some harsh shouts the driver recovered his money from them.
I reached Tigala, and took one more Tempo to Barwa Sagar. Got down at Jarai Ka Math on the way to Barwa Sagar. Had some arguments with the ASI Monument Attendant at the gate and entered the Complex. It was great, suddenly I had a feeling that the credit, we bestow upon the Mughals for developing Indian Architecture is not worthy. In fact the temples from 8th –11th century are much more rich in designs, carvings and details. The temples from Pratihara period those, which escape the wrath of Muslim invaders, scattered all around North India, are “Masterpiece Creations.”
Jarai Ka Math is also made during the Pratihara Period in the 9th Century. It has boundary around the temple, built at the same time as the temple. The carvings on the outer walls are a pure visual treat and testimony of the artisan’s mastery of the art. Though the inside cannot be approached, I satisfied myself by clicking some pictures from outside and headed for Barwa Sagar.
A few tempos passed by but no one stopped, as there was none other than me, standing alone along a speedy highway. At last, I managed to get a Tractor that dropped me at Barwa Sagar. Since I was alone and new to the place, I decided to take an Auto Rickshaw rather than to explore the place myself. The “Auto Wallah” asked me whether I had come to Barwa Sagar a few days back. We moved towards the “Jharna” that’s how the lake is known here. Barwa Sagar Lake is an artificial lake created by the orders of Bundela King Udit Singh. Overlooking the lake is a fort, one of the many build by the Bundelas. Though I had come to Barwa Sagar for my special love towards forts, but the caretaker denied me an entry. That fellow had locked the main gate and was moving somewhere else in the fort. I tried my best to catch his attention, “Chaukidaar”….. “Chaukidaar”….. but with no gains.
At last I decided to take some photographs in the fading light, and then moved towards the lake. Took some other pictures, and decided to call off the day. But, again when I went near the Fort Gate, on my way back, I just failed to control my temptation. ….. “Chaukidaar”….. “Chaukidaar”….. Again the enigmatic silence was broken by my desirous shouts to see the fort from inside. “Okay, something must remain for the next visit”, this is what I told myself, and went straightway to the Bus Stand.
What drove me to Barwa Sagar was a photograph taken by Deen Dayal, way back in 1882 for a collection “Views of places proposed to be visited by Their Excellencies Lord & Lady Curzon during Autumn Tour 1902”. I don’t know whether Curzon and his wife actually made their way to Barwa Sagar. But, if they skipped Barwa Sagar for any other well-known and celebrated place, then it was definitely a loss for them.
The place has changed very little; to know how it looked like in those days, just have a look. And, now just compare this with the photographs that I have taken, after about 122 years. One would definitely say, “Nothing has really changed” and it is a fact. This sleepy village with feeble population has not wakened up yet.
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