Jodhpur - A saga of valour and obedience

Finishing off my official obligations in the evening, I had to stretch hard to catch my train to Jodhpur. “At last, I am going to see the majestic mehrangarh” I said to myself. Jodhpur had been on my wish list for quite a long time but the time never came. It was a comfortable ride of around 5 hours in an air-conditioned chair car. Close to reaching Jodhpur, I inquired a few co-passengers about the availability of auto rickshaws at late night, as our train was scheduled to reach Jodhpur by 2300 hrs. They assured me of finding ample means to move around throughout the night. As always, true to its reputation, the train was late by 20 minutes and I landed at Jodhpur by 2345 hrs. Faithfully sticking to my trusted and tested travel companion – lonely Planet, I decided to move to Yogi's Rajpurohitji ki Haveli with apprehensions of finding any room to stay. The thought of being served with dinner at midnight actually never came to my mind and that’s why I took a packet of Good day biscuits and a bottle of drinking water to stack up my empty abdomen.

Passing through the narrow congested streets of Jodhpur, I reached the Haveli. The manager was just about go to his bed when I asked him, “Koi kamra milega kya? He said, “why not? Please have a look and then you can decide. At that moment of time wasting any more time finding a hotel was a not only foolish but an idiotic idea and the room that he offered was a cool one, a real value for money. The deal was struck at Rs. 300/- per day. Hesitantly, I asked, “Kuch khaney ko milega kya?” nearly sure of a negative response. “Ha sahaab, kyon nahi, aap hamarey mehmaan hai, zaroor milega”, he replied with enthusiasm. He told me to wait in the roof top restaurant while he moved into the kitchen to see what all can be prepared in the minimum time. I made my way to the open and airy roof top through the cramp stairs; it was just perfect for a candle light dinner, at midnight. It was a great first sight of the mehrangarh - right from its foothills. The mighty mehrangarh was silent, and soothing to the eyes. Slender high rise bastions, with chisel fine mason work were quite unique to this Rajputana stronghold. a serenading calm prevailed over the whole area; only vocals that one could hear was chanting of local people mourning death of one of their owns.

His staff had already gone to bed by this time after a tiring days work. Pulling up a few of them, he offered me a platter of “aloo ki subzi” with “garam roti.” Food was good and I literally gorged upon it; he kept on supplying me the rotis and I stopped just short of a double digit count. After finishing off my much desired dinner I thanked the manager and he took my leave while I decided to spend some more time smoking cigarette and appreciating the moonlit fort. I could land up in my cozy bed only by 0125 hrs with my mobile alarm set at 0530 hrs. It was a conscious decision to catch the rising sun and the fort, bathed in the soft early morning light. Every thing went as planned and I climbed up to reach the highest available point at the roof top, welcoming the sun. It was simply superb, and very difficult for me to describe the magic of mysterious colours in words, with my limited share of vocabulary. Since, I feel, I am better at photography than writing travelogues my pictures can give you a more accurate description of the early morning drama that left me spell bound. The Jodhpur clock tower and Umaid Bhawan Palace could be easily identified through the suspended dust and fiery fog. After quite some minutes I found that I was not alone in my moment of madness, an angrez had quietly joined me.After a brief nap to compensate for that break in sleep followed by a freshening bath, I decided to have my breakfast, and flag off my maneuvers for the day. While, having the breakfast, I showed the young manager my early morning exploits on my digicam. Like always, my research was complete, and well-planned. I decided to kick-off my day from the marble monument named Jaswant Thada, just north of mehrangarh fort. Jaswant Thada, named after one of the famous rulers of Jodhpur, Jaswant Singh II is pristine creation in marble that also stands testimony to the relative peace that prevailed over Marwar. Jaswant Singh II is known for his development activities in the region that helped the local economy. But, not all great men meet a matching end, and the same happened with Jaswant. Jaswant Singh’s favour for the moderate mughal prince Dara Shikoh as the new Mughal Emperor was something Aurangzeb couldn’t digest. A tumultuous situation rose with rumors of Shah Jahan’s death leaking out from Delhi.

Aurangzeb, who was posted as Governor at Aurangabad, marched towards Delhi with support of his brother, Murad Baksh. Jaswant decided to fight out the joint raiding armies of Aurangzeb and Murad, at Dharmatpur near Ujjain. Sadly, Jaswant lost the battle and after a fierce and bloody tug-of-warm, with many murders and few kidnappings, Aurangzeb, finally became Mughal Emperor in 1659. Jaswant Singh was in a helpless situation and apprehending a harsh treatment from his new boss. And it happened quite soon; Jaswant Singh was sent to the North Western frontier at Afghanistan to lead the mughal army. Faced with dry chilly winds and hostile climatic conditions, he died in 1680.Looking at the architectural features that dominantly have Hindu motifs, one can easily derive the religious affiliations of the Marwar Kings. At, places some fusion can also be spotted, but largely, the edifice looks like a typical Hindu monument. A high central spire in centre is surrounded with four small chhatris – all in white marble. Many other domed chhatris can also be spotted on the roof that adds to its beauty. A perfect deep blue sky made things even more contrasting and appealing to eyes, very ideal for a photographic workout. Having moved around the otherwise simple and dull interiors, I decided to have a closer look at the nearby row of identical systematically placed white marble chhatris with a red sandstone base. Entry to these small chhatris, belonging to other royals, is prohibited, and quite rightly so, as there is hardly anything inside to explore. Also, that helps is keeping these chhatris spotlessly clean. Although, grandeur was there, I kept searching for the soul, and to be honest I found none. Having done all that I could have with my new digicam, I decided to move to my next destination, looming large on Jodhpur skyline – the mehrangarh fort.“Richard Gere, that Visa Ad” well I am more than 100 percent sure that you know it, but the only thing is you don’t know the fort that features in the beautifully directed Ad film. Mehrangarh Fort, comfortably sitting atop the raised hill overlooking the city, is the best, maintained and marketed fort, I have ever seen in the Indian Sub-continent.

While majority of Indian forts are lost in wilderness, with illegal occupants and dust laden walkways, this one is astonishing well-manicured, with polished brassware, clean passages, modern lifts, and more importantly, a well defined area open to visitors. After capturing the massiveness from the car parking lot, I moved inside to the ticket counter.

I am somewhat, in favour of commercializing heritage but to this extent, is certainly beyond my imagination. In mehrangarh, commercialization is to the extent that you actually have a choice – how would like to climb up this massive fort? Would you like to have an audio guide or a conventional guide? These are some of the questions that you may face when you land at the booking window. Audio Guide is nothing but a set of bun like headphones through which a visitor is guided to move around the well planned and numbered galleries and palaces inside the fort. I took the middle path – decided in favour of a conventional guide but preferred the modern lift to cut short the time. My guide was a well mannered professional, quick, smart, and wont let you stop anywhere for more than the self allotted time. He started his stories of the Marwar Valor, but I was least interested. After a while he gauged my mood rightly that it was the architecture that I was interested in. “Sir, this is the only season when we get good visitors and moving with this pace would dramatically affect my days earning” he informed me. I also agreed, and instead of getting into an unnecessary argument, decided to have a quick escorted look with him.

Most of the time I just kept on nodding, posing as if I am totally with him, though he was quite aware of my faking nods. One by one, he took me to the many palaces that house varieties of artifacts, common house wares, swords and gun power, and many other things depicting the royal grandeur. Palaces at Mehrangarh, are in a surprisingly high state of maintenance. The gilded ceilings and pillars still have a glaring glitter; the glass wares are still retain much of their old shine; the stained glass windows still create the same royal opulence. Another essential feature of all Rajputana palace complexes – hidden and mysteriously placed doors, walkways and staircases that connect the various compartments – is quite evident here as well. No regular, systematic or symmetrical pattern has been followed while making these palaces. With a new maharaja, came a new palace, and the poor artisans were left to the daunting task of making it look somewhat different and more gracious than the existing ones. Overhanging roofs were largely inspired from the traditional terracotta temples of Bishnupur in Bengal. This also tells us about the pervasiveness of the mighty mughal rule in those medieval days. Regional Architectural patterns became nationalized and an amalgamation of many local patterns gradually created a more uniform and refined style.

After finishing the escorted tour of the many fabled palaces, he took to the Museum Shop near the exit. One more commercial enterprise from the Mehrangarh Fort Trust; gazed through the overprized gallery of royal souvenirs, I ended up with a set of postcards. “Can I go back and take some more photographs inside?” I asked my turbaned guide. “Sure Sir! If anyone questions you, just tell him that you have missed your team and going back to join them” was his reply. Posing to be in search of my lost companions, I slowly made my way to the starting point. Clicking went on unabated as I moved past the palaces again; this time – quite relaxed and no one to cause hurry. However, to my surprise, later I found out that the pictures I took on my first maneuver outclassed my exploits during the second. Well! Quite hard to explain, like many other things in life.

Moving to the outdoors, I made my way to the dancing floor that Salman Khan used in Bollywood Blockbuster - Tere Naam. Mehrangarh, just like its interiors – has great ramparts overlooking the blue city. Slender bastions with fiery canons fitted to take care of the invading enemy coming from all the directions look simply awesome. Looking for the make, as I was glancing through the engraved details, Cossipore, struck am immediate chord. It was an 1863 Maxwell make canon, manufactured at Cossipore Works in Bengal. Calcutta in those days was as prosperous as any other British City, and most British and western companies had already started their manufacturing and marketing outlets there. “Made in Calcutta” in those days was quite synonymous to what “Made in Japan” means today.

Jodhpur was founded by Rao Jodha of Mandore, from the Rathore Rajput clan, in the year 1459 as a new capital to take care of his expanding empire of Marwar. He invited the Brahmins to populate his new found capital, as he had great faith in their knowledge and disciplined lifestyle. Blue was the colour that was assigned to them to separate their houses from the others. A commanding position in society caused a lot of Brahmin population to move in Jodhpur and create a modern city. But, lately, irrespective of the caste, blue became a local favorite and their fondness for blue gave Jodhpur a sobriquet of “the blue city.” My next destination along the forts ramparts was Chamunda Devi temple, a simple temple with some good carved details at the ceiling and support pillars. Took some pictures and decided to move ahead.

Descending down the corbelled walkways through the massive forts gates, I waited for a while to have a look at the hand imprints of queens who preferred death than insult and harassment at the enemy’s hands. Local women still touch these imprints and take blessings. Soon, my enthusiasm took a jolt as I found that I am up against the sunlight coming in from the opposite direction that’s causing a dull view of the palace façade. Tried every corner but nothing worked to my level of satisfaction. You better have a look what I achieved with all my camera attachments. So, how is that?

Mehrangarh Fort, to describe in a single word, was simply overwhelming – a true and ageless depiction of the Marwar grandeur and peaceful rule. Had a few final looks and decided to move towards Mandore, first capital of Rathores. After a bit of haggling, took an Auto Rickshaw. Mandore was the place from where it all started – the birth place of the mighty Marwars. When this small town became insufficient to accommodate the swelling empire, a search was initiated for a new capital, and it ended with creation of Jodhpur. On my way, a small, but neatly painted hoarding drew my attention. It showed the diversion route for Balsamand – the lake facing luxurious summer palace. Although my pre-tour research had culminated in favor of this place lack of time left me with no options, but to move ahead. “Next Time”, I said to myself.

A rejuvenating local glass full of Jaljeera and a packet of Lays – American cheese and onion – worked as my lunch as I checked-in Chhatri Baugh at Mandore that house a treasure trove of passionately build, but ill-maintained sandstone chhatris. It seems that the love has faded long back, and the chhatris are fighting a lone battle for survival. Local people, too, don’t have any concern and pay no heed of attention. A few school children bunking their classes, a couple of lovebirds looking for a hideout, and a bunch of illiterate jokers, totally unaware of something called national heritage & more interested in climbing up the crumbling blocks, leaving behind their badly written names could only be spotted. I was quite disheartened at the total state of affairs.
Just as I started to analyze the architectural influences, I found here too, it’s a blend of many styles and patterns. Red Sandstone has been used without giving a thought for any alternative options. In my layman opinion, these structures lack proper planning; workmanship is pretty average in terms of the quality of binding medium; hasty execution may be attributed to the lack of overall sturdiness. And that’s the reason why many of these structures have either fallen apart or waiting to fall. I did climb up one these structures through a set of narrow stairs, only to find a few hooligans. Total disregard for these chhatris and no effort on part of the government – state and central – have left this cluster in very bad shape. A swanky newly build amusement park, just behind the Chhatri Baugh is the latest crowd puller in Mandore, but this has hardly made any difference to the fate of these abandoned chhatris.

Finishing off the detailed expeditions to individual temples, I decided to take some rest, have some nicotine puffs, and move to the more famous Umaid Bhawan Palace. My mood was somber; “when will we Indians start appreciating our heritage and conserving the same?” came the query. When will we realize the importance of being “Original” and stop copying others? Popped one more. Actually, there’s no one blame; in India, heritage and domesticity are so inter-mingled at places that it’s really a challenge to keep them apart. On way to the Umaid Bhawan Palace many thoughts came and went, as my auto rickshaw passed through the dusty by lanes of Jodhpur. Interestingly, I found a lot of antique dealers with all their items piled along the roadsides – old brass wares, door panels with metal etched decorations, coins from the princely age and many more other things that can provoke any art lover.

Sitting pretty over Chittar hill overlooking Jodhpur city, Umaid Bhawan Palace is an Indo-Saracenic compilation that has all influences other than Indian. Huge blocks of finely chiseled golden yellow sandstone have been used extensively in finely executed masonry work surprisingly with no mortar. Guess how? Simple, first the interlocking blocks were carved and then it was like a simple child play to put them in proper places. What started as a food-for-work project for the famine affected subjects of Jodhpur, employing three thousand laborers for a period of sixteen years created a masterpiece that ranks amongst one of the finest palaces in India. By 1929, like most royals in India, Maharaja Umaid Singh had developed a strong liking for western stuffs, and that’s the reason why he choose the renowned Edwardian Architect named Henry Lanchester to design his new mansion. Luxury! Well that’s a pretty ordinary word for what Lanchester created. With 347 rooms, exotic murals, indoor swimming pool, cinema hall, never ending lobbies, and well laid gardens, Umaid Bhawan Palace is opulence redefined.

With an area of 26 acres, out of which constructed area is 3.5 acres and 15 acres have been devoted to lawns, when completed at an exorbitantly high cost of one crore twenty one lac rupees, this is one of the finest and grandest private residences in the world. Today, Umaid Bhawan Palace is broadly divided into three areas depending on their use and accessibility. Maharaja Gaj Singh, the present maharaja occupies nearly one-third of the palace, private and strictly inaccessible. A huge share of royal palatial suites is with TAJ Group who has converted it into a luxurious hotel, well beyond the reach of even the Indian middle class. Whatever, was left, was used to house the royal belongings to create a museum – dull and non informative. The purpose of starting the museum I believe was to create - a generous and caring attitude - amongst their estranged subjects and at the same time revive the pre-independence relation. Impressed by stunning interiors, and a wicked desire to click in the no-photography zone, I bribed one of the many caretakers with a ten rupee currency note. After finishing off the interiors, rested for some time at the ticket counter, sipping a packaged apple drink with an over-frozen pineapple pastry.

Having quenched my heritage desires, I landed in busy and bustling market place of Jodhpur near clock tower. As always, I was looking for some local specialties – handicrafts, art objects, eatables, and what not. After some window shopping at National Handloom, I decided to take two Bandhni or Tie-n-die silk sarees. Bandhni, is an unique indigenous printing technique, where-in, first the fabric is tied with threads in a systematic pre-planned way and then put through the dye. The tight knots avoid complete penetration of dye that creates interesting patterns when untied. It was already 18 30 hrs and by now my stomach had already started to voice its justified demands for some food. “Don’t worry the saris would be ready in an hour?” said the saleswoman. Bandhni work needs some unwinding and heavy ironing to make it flat and presentable. Left for my hotel and after a refreshing face wash, made my way to the rooftop restaurant for my last open air dinner at Jodhpur. I ordered one egg curry, one mushroom masala, and gobbled up a good number of light “Phulkeys” while appreciating the grandness of Mehrangarh. It was a satisfying staple, after a hectic day of haphazard maneuvers. Paying off my hotel bills, I left for Jodhpur railway station via National Hand loom.