The magic of Mandu

I purchased the book two years back when I went to Tipu’s summer palace at Srirangapatanam, but never read it. Hampi and Ahmedabad were the two other books along with Mandu that I had purchased. But, as soon as, I got the green signal from my boss about the official tour to Indore, the book lost some of the dust that deposited over it. “I am not going to miss it anyway,” that was the mood. To keep aside any unforeseen troubles and maximise my stay at Mandu, I decided to stay one day extra, apart from the official work.

Every evening after office hours, I would pick up the ASI guide about Mandu and workout my possible ways of maneuvering the Mandu hilltop. Though I had already glanced all its plates, I decided to go through the whole book. I was quite impressed by the way information has been compiled. I also referred some other travel books that I had. Surfing the net for some piece of information, remained a routine job a week. Putting everything together, I decided that at least a day and at most a day and a night stay at Mandu, if mood swings. I had a full day to spare at Indore, so there were no hurdles. But, my foolproof master plan failed and very much with my own consents.

It was already 12 in the clock when we – Dipak, Rajnish, Mukesh K, Mukesh A and myself sat down with a bottle of Signature premium whiskey. But, I failed to put down their request for the party. We had brought two VCD’s – Chasme baddoor and Hiralal Pannalal, and Dipak wanted to finish off both. We enjoyed the movie and whiskey at the same time, while Mithunda stared from the VCD cover, lying nearby. Even after the whiskey episode I was in full control of my Mandu dreams. While Dipak and all kept on watching, I quietly slipped out. Ramu, the obedient caretaker cum cook had also gone to his bed. Ramu was an interesting character and deserves a mention. Maybe he has never looked in his master’s eyes ever. He was very shy and sincere, and knows his job very well. I had some roti’s and choley and went to bed. I had no idea when Rajnish and Dipak went to bed.

I wake up relatively early, and completed the daily chores. I was in dilemma, what to do? And how to move ahead? Rajnish had given his consent to accompany me to Mandu, but he was still in bed and I didn’t wanted to disturb his prized morning sleep. I decided to have my breakfast and move ahead by 10:00 AM. “I am coming”, Rajnish said just when I was having my breakfast. I waited for him for another one hour and we could start our journey only by 11:30 AM.

“If you have a hearty desire, he never lets you down”, I remembered these words of Motilal Kaku. We were on our way to Mandava, or Mandapadurga, or Mandu whatever you may like to call. We stopped at a roadside dhaba to have some tea and cigarettes and then moved ahead. The travel to Mandu was a luxurious one, compared to my trip to Maheshwar the day before. After a drive of around two and half hours, the ruins made their first appearance. Many tombs can be seen scattered, here and there, adding to the beauty were the lush green bushes all around.

After a few minutes drive, we reached a point that overlooks a deep gorge. The height was sufficient to give anyone a spine-chilling shiver. We found a “shikanji Wallah” and had a shikanji. It helped to shake up my nervous system that otherwise was performing dull because of the late night cocktail party. I was in an absolutely charged up mood.

Having past through some other scattered ruins, here and there, we entered the Mandu fort via the Bhangi gate. Why Bhangi, comes the immediately enquiry; Mandu has many gates but Bhangi Gate lies on the main motor able road to the hilltop. The views around the gate were simply great – blossoming lotus in the nearby water pockets, overgrown bushes, and other creepers added to antiquity around. Nearby were the ruins of Gada Shah’s shop at a raised plateau.

Although I had already gone through the ASI book on Mandu, I decided to take a guide, just to make the best possible use of our time. He explained to us, why Dilawar Khan Ghori named it “Shadiabad” (town of joy) and why his son Hoshang Shah made Mandu his seat of power. I interrupted him intermittently to check my grip over my knowledge of medieval Indian history. By the time we were planning the possible ways of moving around the fort, it was already 2:30 pm. So, we had very little time, and a world to explore. “Even your whole life is not sufficient to see all of it, though it can be finished off in a day, ” that’s what the guide told us. I decided to cover the major monuments and keep the rest for my next visit.


Our first stop was the much famed – Roopmati’s pavilion. Roopmati shared a special relationship with Baaz Bahadur. Baaz Bahadur was a great lover of music and Roopmati was a accomplished singer. It is said that their love, found its expression only through music. Though they had never seen each other, their love was as pure as their music. The Roopmati’s pavilion, standing at the highest point in Mandapadurga is a testimony of Baaz Bahadur’s love for Roopmati. This place offers the best possible views of the Nimar Plains and the River Narmada. Every morning Roopmati would come up at the pavilion and had a look at the Narmade, before starting her day. Roopmati grew up on the banks of river Narmada, and this association was the reason for the daily morning act.

The pavilions made on two elevated platform has trademark afghan architecture and finds its place in all travel guides about Mandu. It is the location and stories of Baaz Bahadur and Roopmati that make this monument, a not-to-miss in Mandu. You can also have a mesmerising look of the ruined Mandu terrain. After staying at the top for a good time, we came down and moved towards the Baaz Bahadur’s palace nearby.

Baaz Bahadur’s palace, sitting next to the Rewa kund is a fabulous place, overlooking the plains. All around arch shaped pillars have been used for supports. Inside the palace, there is a pond with steps on all sides to get down. Adjacent to the open central courtyard that houses the pond, there is a hall. The hall has two compartments on either side with some low noise hi-fi acoustic effects. I was informed by my guide that this was the place where music competitions were held and Roopmati defeated the “Navratna” Tansen.

On our way to the Nilkanth, we stopped at the Dai ki chhoti bahen ka Mahal and Dai ka Mahal, though we didn’t enter because of lack of time. A local passer by drew our attention by his shouts. Soon, we knew that actually he is giving a demonstration of the acoustic effects embedded in the monuments. We also tried and Yes! It does echoes and comes back with some time lag. I was reminded of the Golconda fort that also has some amazing sound tricks.



Nilkanth is the only monument atop the hilltop that encompasses a Hindu belief. This temple was build by Emperor Akbar for his Hindu queen Jodhabai. Shiva – the destroyer, one among the Trinity, about whom Hinduism revolves, is the presiding deity here. Rajnish offered some white lotus flowers, while I looked around for some snappy views. Had some cold drinks and moved towards the Jama Masjid. On our way, I came across a strange tree, with a wide trunk and thin branches. The answer from the guide came, “this is Mandu ki Imli.” The trees made their way from the African continent along with the Traders. The Mandu Sultans had good trading relationships with the Arabs, central Asians, and Africans. But, what surprised me was when we came back down the hill; there were none of them.


After a short drive, we were at the mammoth Jama Masjid, just opposite the Ashrafi Mahal. We visited a nearby temple, and came back to the Masjid. Ashrafi Mahal, sitting next to the Masjid was a huge creation, though in a bad shape. What used to be the most majestic monument in Mandu during the reign of Hoshang shah is in shambles. The leading steps, main gate, and some pillars can be seen today. I took a snap and entered the Masjid that is relatively intact.


One word can aptly describe this monument – grand. The general layout and design is huge. It lacks detailed patterns, but has sound blocks of sandstone, put together in the strongest possible configuration. Innumerable domes adorn the roof, on all sides, with an alien shape. I was in agreement with my guide when he said, “this design was influenced by architectural styles of Damascus.” But, then why carved pillars, of typical Hindu style, were used inside the Masjid, remains a mystery. It seems that these blocks came from nearby temples and palaces of the Paramara Kingdom of Dhar.


The Masjid is quite, and a good place to take some rest. But, we can’t; moved ahead to the nearby unique and interesting tomb of Hoshang shah. Hoshang shah was the sultan who made Mandu his capital. His tomb has a distinction of being the first white marble edifice in the Indian sub-continent that later inspired Emperor Shahjahan to make the Taj Mahal in White marble. Shahjahan send his architects to Mandu before finalising the plans for the inimitable Taj Mahal. It is said that Hoshang started the construction in his own lifetime; the reason being, he had poisoned his own father to become the sultan and that’s why he had fears of something similar for himself.


The tomb made of white marble, though of many shades, has an interesting architecture. The square base converges into octagonal shape at the top that ultimately supports the central tomb. Four small tombs are placed at four corners. It was not possible to capture the whole monument in single frame, but I did succeeded in capturing the tomb with Jama Masjid domes in the background.

One contrasting thing drew my attention; the long hall near the Masjid supported with carved pillars. Why so? Hardly there is such arrangement in any other Masjid I have seen elsewhere. I was very excited and busy with my camera, ignoring Rajnish and Mr. Guide completely. While they had already completed the tomb complex, I was still wandering in the sultan’s final rest place. When felt satisfied only when there was a need of nicotine from my blood cells. Moved outside and enjoyed every bit of the cigarette to the last possible puff.



Our next stopover was the Jahaz Mahal complex. Just as we reached there, I felt the need to change my camera film. A change from B&W to Colour. I purchased some books from the ASI counter at Jahaz Mahal. The security arrangements at Jahaz Mahal looked more organized, alert, and professional, as compared to the other monuments at Mandu. This complex has quite a few palaces and baolis – Jahaz Mahal, Hindola Mahal, Champa baoli and many more.


We took some high-rise steps, about 40 of them to reach the rooftop of Jahaz Mahal. This palatial mansion, surrounding by artificial lakes on both sides, was build by Ghyasuddin. The palace has a rectangular layout that gives it a ship-like appearance, and thus the name, Jahaz Mahal. It is said that on a moonlit night, the lakes on either sides, gives a magical illusion of a ship making its way in the sea. Emperor Jehangir visited Mandu with his beloved queen Noor Jahan; he fell in love with this palace and the palace.


Ghyasuddin, the leisure, and fun-loving sultan actually made this Mahal for his large harem that had around 11,000 women. He enjoyed a luxurious and extravagant life, the other Mahals he build, stand testimony of his pompous lifestyle. Jahaz Mahal has numerous rooms, many balconies, and a pool. Intricate channels of water, that once fed the pool, can still be seen.


The construction as such is very sound; no complicated and detailed patterns, but only solid stone blocks and some lime mortar to put those blocks in place. Again, just like in Baaz Bahadur’s palace, trademark afghan arches can be seen here in abundance. The adjoining lakes add to the antiquity while maintaining serenity. It was a great sight; I took some snaps in a hurry and tried to keep pace with Rajnish and my Guide, as they were rushing ahead.


Though I wanted to stay there for some more time, the guide was the pushing force that took us to Hindola Mahal. For the first time in my life, I recognized the demerits of hiring the services of a guide. We reached the nearby Hindola Mahal, another Ghyasuddin creation. Why Hindola? Because the walls here are slopped outwards which gives an impression as if the whole Mahal is swaying. This has strong pillars supporting the aches that hold the roof.


Our last guided spot was – Turkish Hamam, which had arrangements for a steam bath. The Hamam was circular in shape with steam tubes pouring steam from all the directions. The ceiling had some opening through which light was coming. He also showed us some other medieval bath and lavatory techniques. Mr. Guide looked in a hurry to finish off and he was in no mood to show us the remaining ruins. We decided to explore the leftovers on our own, and gave him his fee.

By the time, we started exploring the dark and not-often visited corners of the ruins; we felt the need to have something. It has been long since we had our breakfast and the traces of alcohol that we had last night, has already burned out. We decided to finish off in half and hour, but then, you never know what’s there in store. As I was snapping some great views around Jahaz Mahal, my camera motor failed. I tried in the every possible manner, applied the every trick that I had in my basket, to make it operational.


It was a sheer disappointment. I had thought of photographing the Mandu terrain on our way back. I consoled myself, “Mandu wants me to come here again, and I will come back very soon, for at least two days.” We decided to call off the day, and make our way to a good restaurant. As, I was coming back through the ruins of Jahaz Mahal complex, with fading sunlight, I experienced the magic that Mandu is. I left the Jahaz Mahal complex with mixed sentiments. I was happy and satisfied to have seen the massive palatial mansions of the Mandu sultans, their techno baolis and Hamams, their impeccable sense of natural beauty, and the magical environs of the Malwa plateau. But, I was feeling sad as well for failing to capture the same magic with my camera. I have a firm belief that “whatever happens, sometimes as we plan and sometimes against our wishes, is good.” What matters is how we look at the failures?


A good and hygienic restaurant, that’s what we all desperately looked for at the end of an eventful day. We found one, had some snacks, and moved ahead as it would take another three hours to Indore. Near, Jama Masjid we stopped for some local shopping; Rajnish took some ayurvedic medicine for arthritis, while I bought a Mandu ki Imli, as a souvenir.

The silent tombs, shops, and gates came on our way as our TATA Indica descended down the Mandapadurga. The dusky sky, mild blowing wind, overgrown bushes, baobab trees, and the scattered ruins – what else can you ask for? Not only Mandu matched my expectation, but it also instigated a desire to revisit this medieval town. Even when I am writing this travelogue, the Mandu magic still continues to conjure my mind.