“IN TO THE HOLKAR’S STRONGHOLD”

Those images are still fresh in my mind; as I sat down to write this memoir.
But words alone cannot make this memoir live, so I decided to add all the photographs that I took at Maheshwar.

I was very firm mentally, to go to Maheshwar, the moment I left for Indore. On my way I went through some of the printouts that I had taken. Lately I had developed a habit of surfing the Internet and collecting information related to the place where I will be going. When I was looking for the possible excursions from Indore, Maheshwar came to my notice. I was very much impressed by those pictures that I saw in the MP tourism’s official website. The grand Ghat struck me the most and immediately my we had an agreement – my inner self and me. I will be going to Maheshwar.

Early morning I checked out of hotel Sayaji Grand and moved our company guesthouse, as my official work was over. I reached the guesthouse, had my breakfast with Rajnish, Dipak, and Mukesh kanchan, while Ramu served us in the best way he can. Ramu was the caretaker cum cook cum …… everything. He had never looked in his master’s eyes, and has no such ideas of doing so in future.

I was told that he came from Nepal, but he is very honest, as all Nepali’s are. That’s the reason that though we don’t have Gorkha’s in India, but we do have the Gorkha Regiment in the Indian Army.

Rajnish and Dipak wanted me to go with them, to the office. I accompanied them to the office and somehow managed to convince them to leave me outside the office. I asked the driver Harish to drop me at Sarvate Bus Stand, from where I can find a bus to Maheshwar.

How I moved
Sarvate Bus Stand to Dhamnod in State Transport Bus (77 kms.)
Dhamnod to Maheshwar in Local Bus (13 kms.)

At the bus stand, some local travel agents told me that there is no direct bus to Maheshwar. So, I will have to go to Dhamnod and from there take another bus for Maheshwar. Took a State Transport Bus to Dhamnod. The journey was horrible; throughout Madhya Pradesh the condition of roads is very bad, but Indore – Dhamnod Route had some really massive potholes and dangerous turns. At some places it was hard to believe that the bus is actually going through a National Highway. After about three hours of impatient drive, I was at Dhamnod. Moved towards a Chai Thela and had a hot cup of tea and some nicotine. As I was about to pay, Chai Wallah said, “Ho Gaya.”

Actually during the course of this three-hour travel I made friendship with an uncle, who was also going to Maheshwar. He felt suffocated and asked for the window seat that I was occupying. I obliged immediately, earlier also when our bus passed Mhow, he took Bhajiya from an outside vendor, and again I did whatever I could have.

In the whole region, I mean Malwa region people have a special love for Bhajiyas, the most popular being the Sev. Sev comes in a whole range of size and taste. Sev sprinkled over Poha (made with rice flakes) and jalebi is everyone’s first choice for breakfast in the whole Malwa Region. The “Poha Penetration” can be gauged from the fact that even in the best hotels, in and around Indore, Poha forms a regular part of the Breakfast Menu.
From Dhamnod, I took another bus for Maheshwar. I reached Maheshwar by 14:15 afternoon. I had two options – one to explore the place alone or take an Auto Rickshaw. I decided to take an Auto Rickshaw as I was already running behind the schedule.

The sight of just two Auto rickshaws and deserted streets made me nervous and in haste, I took Ashfaq for Rs. 100. He named a few places and committed to show all of them. On my way towards the fort, I took a bottle of Chilled water and moved on. Just as reached near the sloppy ramp leading to the fort, the engine had some trouble. Many thoughts came, but after some hit and trials Ashfaq made it move.

As we passed through the main gate, I had a sigh of relief that at last I have made it to one more fort. The fort was a small one with fewer but sound bastions. It occupies the banks of river Narmada, but does have some elevation that adds to its defense. We moved around the palace, and took some photographs. Ashfaq took me to a place from where one can have a simply astounding view of river Narmada, and the adjoining areas. There were many temples along the Narmada Ghat, and one right in the middle of it. Guessing my excited and impatient mood, Ashfaq assured me that we would be going to the same temple later. So, let’s first move into the Palace Complex.



Ashfaq took me inside the Palace, which once was the royal seat of Rani Ahilya Devi.
The palace was made of wood, immediately I inquired why wood? He had no answers to offer. The whole palace was supported with wooded blocks. I was informed that the palace was destroyed some time back in a fire accident and what remains today is a mere sample of what Holkars actually had.

“Holkars might have had I genuine fascination for wood,” I thought. The reason being, in Indore also (next Holkar capital after Maheshwar), Rajwada also faced the same fate. Rajwada was the palatial complex made by the Holkars when they moved to Indore from Maheshwar after the death of Ahilya bai. Rajwada caught fire three times in its lifespan and very little of the original creation has survived.

We moved around the whole palace including the personal temple of Ahilya bai. Ahilya Bai was a Maratha queen who had strong Hindu beliefs. It is said that she ordered her son to be smashed by raging elephants just he has behaved indecently with some ladies. The story very popular in the region is often used to glorify the queen. She used to perform the “Narmada Pujan” every morning before starting the other daily activities. She believed in the woman empowerment, and for the same she promoted weaving of Maheshwari Saris by local women. Even today, these saris are unique in a sense that silk and cotton are mixed while weaving. It was Ahilya bai, who actually planned to shift her capital to Indore, but Indore became the Holkar capital only after death.



We moved towards the temple complex and ghats, just nearby the fort. While I coming down the ramp, I had the first glimpse of Ahilyeshwar temple. The temple had a stark dissimilarity with the palace, we had just seen. It was made entirely in sandstone; even the two dweepa’s near the entrance are made of stone.



I was very satisfied; I got some rewards for the tiresome and lonely journey of about 4 hours. The whole temple complex along with the Cenotaph of Ahilya bai’s son and Ahilyeshwar Ghat are simply great. Sandstone has been used to the extent possible and the quality of workmanship very refined.

The temple has a main entrance that leads to a few steps, which ultimately end up to the raised sanctum. There was a walkway that must have been used for making “parikrama” around the temple. I moved around the whole temple, staring at the huge size of the central spire. In the upper parts, some white marble has also been used to produce some contrasting patterns. Then I moved to the side galleries from where the holy Narmada can be seen. These galleries must have been made for the pilgrims who made their way to Maheshwar in those royal days. Every corner of the complex is in perfect shape and given a water wash will be like a new one. Though in some upper parts, there is some blackening of sandstone because of water leakage.

I took the nearby stairs and reached the top. The views were extraordinary – one side you have the calm stretches of Narmada and on the other, mute and morose structures of the Holkars. The gates were huge and still have the same old “Holkar” woodwork. Having spent a good time in the temple complex and having clicked a good number of photographs in B&W, I moved towards the cenotaph.

The cenotaph too was like poetry in sandstone. Intricate carvings can be seen everywhere. But what drew my and my camera’s attention was a plinth having a number of Carved elephants. May this has something to do with the way Ahilya bai’s son was punished. The structure looked very compact and strong. Nearby there were rest rooms cum changing chambers for pilgrims.

I moved towards the nearby grand gate that leads to the Ahilyeshwar Ghat. The gate is followed by a number of steps in five directions, that end up on a common platform. Vigilant Warriors are ready to take care of any eventuality. “Why that Floodlight?”, I asked myself. Just over the main gate, a floodlight has been fixed may be with right intension of lighting the whole area, but it causes a side effect of disturbing the area aesthetics. From there again, I took steps to descend down to the Narmada Waters. I was simply spellbound by the serene views that Ahilyeshwar Ghat offered.

The calm, quite streams of Narmada dotted with some small boats looks great. Ahilyeshwar Ghat also offers some of the exclusive snapshots of a rural Indian Town…. May be village. I found a number of local people having their bath at the ghats. It was very routine and normal for them. May be they were thinking, “what this stupid is doing here?”, when they saw me. What was a great medieval creation for me was just a bathing Ghat, for them. They have no time for the carvings, Bastions, and Vigilant statues.



I took a small engine powered boat, and moved towards the Baneshwar Temple. Though that fellow was catching flies, and staring at the bathing women at the Ghat, he was not ready to move for less than Rs. 50. I agreed and three of us, me, Ashfaq, and that fellow himself, were on our way. Looking at my camera, he rightly guessed that I am more interested in photography and less in the temple. He placed his boat right in front of the gate for me to take some photographs.

The journey to the temple had some supplements – a classic ultra mild, some water, and cool moisture laden breezes. I moved around the whole temple to have a comprehensive view of the area. I was very excited at the very thought of standing in the middle of Narmade. This was the third point along the length of Narmada that I came in contact with. Earlier I had been to Amarkantak, the staring point of Narmada River and Omkareshwar, another holy pilgrimage center along the Narmada.

I stayed at the temple for some time and took the boat back to Ahilyeshwar Ghat. The Ghat was still busy, this time with a few tourists. I wanted to stay at the Ghat for some more time, but time didn’t permit me to do so. Suddenly I heard some sounds from my empty stomach, and that was a final call. I took out some fruits that I had taken from hotel, and there was some drop in the stomach decibel level.

Ashfaq took me to the other places that actually make Maheshwar a great pilgrimage point for the locals in the Malwa Region. Rajarajeshwara and some more temples nearby are the actual crowd pullers. But, I found them quite pale and of not much historical value. The acrylic paints have been put in layers to hide the underlying sandstone works, and the floors have been covered with slabs of white marble. I waited for some time at the temple, as I was very tired. Took out one more apple from my “SENSA” bag and ate the apple to the extent possible.



While resting there, Ashfaq drew my attention towards the Muslim Community at Maheshwar. Where from they came and why they stayed back at a Hindu Kingdom. After recalling some of my Medieval History Knowledge, I came to a conclusion that they might have moved here or converted to Islam during the reign of Mandu Sultans, who controlled the whole of Malwa for a considerable period of time. And during the next few centuries it was under the Mughals. It was only after the Mughal decline Holkars took control of this region. So, it seems that Maheshwar remained more in Islamic influence and less in Hindu influence.

I decided to call it a day and leave for Dhamnod, but wished to buy back some souvenirs from Maheshwar. I walked into REWA society in the palace complex itself that was run by Holkars till this day. Ashfaq had given me some idea about the cost of Maheshwari saris. I felt that the saris are a bit overprized, so ended up buying two postcards from there. I looked at the backside - © RICHARD HOLKAR. The name Richard itself tells the story of what happened to the Holkar descendents. Like many of the Indian princes, they may have made their way to the overseas lands and stayed back there only. Wherever may be the size, the king always wants to rule, and never wants to be ruled by others.

Came outside the palace complex and move towards the main bazaar for some saris. Found one shop with a board “Credit Cards Accepted.” Moved in, and selected some saris but all of a sudden there was a power failure. I had no cash, and the question was whether I would able to take back the souvenirs. Then, the smart salesman connected the computer UPS to the Charge Machine and it worked. I paid the bill and moved away towards the bus stand. Bus was already packed and ready to start for Dhamnod. Reached Dhamnod safely, enjoying the weather and terrains on the way. Surprising I found some banana plantations on both sides of the road, a deserted school, and many other things.

Just as I reached Dhamnod it started raining, took shelter in a Chai shop. It was a never-ending wait there. I looked for the small board in every bus that passed by, as rain poured down unstoppably. After some time it lost the track, I moved outside from the Chai shop. I was getting desperate, as the sky was turning dark slowly and for me – a complete stranger getting a bus has become the topmost priority. I changed my location and moved near to a mobile shop near the main highway.

“Yes” I got it. At last I got what I was looking for. A bus that has a small board in the front with inscription, “…..SE INDORE.” The seats were already occupied and I had to manage by simply standing on my feet for three and half long hours. It had a whole variety of people, including daily laborers, businessmen, locals, and me. I was very excited and the “Swades” song …yuhi chal chala chal rahi… was going through my mind. When I reached Sarvate bus stand, it was raining and I was doubtful of getting any conveyance to our guesthouse. Fortunately, I found an Autowallah, and straightway headed towards the guesthouse.

I was very tired and satisfied, at the same time. Also the thought of exploring Mandu, the next day was very much in my mind. But, destiny had something else in store; Dipak and Rajnish were waiting for me to plan for the cocktail party. I failed to turn down their request, as they had arranged the party for me only. We went outside in search of some alcoholic beverages, and came back with some alcohol and a few VCD’s.

The whole day turned out to be a great one. Exploring the Holkar stronghold, that has very less admirers today, with its compact fort, woody palace, cast sandstone temples, and surprisingly clean ghats, was like a medieval dream come true. What I liked the most about Maheshwar was the tranquility around the place. No tourist crowds, local people busy with their daily works and the holy Narmada