My college Exams were over and I was waiting for the penultimate. As I already had a job offer from HCL Infosystems, I was quite relaxed and so was the mind. In the otherwise monotonous routine life, nothing exciting was in sight. I remember, I was watching Door Darshan that many of us watch only when there is some problem with the cable Signal. The evening news otherwise not of much interest to me, showed some photographs of the recently excavated monuments at Padhawali. I was totally surprised that the monuments are so close and still we haven’t heard of them. Immediately decided to explore the temples the next morning. But, I needed some companions and who else other than Suranjan can serve this purpose. Met him and told him about the discovery of ancient temples of seventh and Eleventh century near Malanpur. He agreed and suggested that we should also take Tanmoy with us. Made a phone call to Tanmoy and the deal was fixed that three of us will move for Padhawali on our trusted cycles, the next morning.
05:30 AM> Started from Surya Vihar Colony with Suranjan (half Hour late than the scheduled departure) on Cycles.
Cycling in the morning hours was not a trouble, in fact the refreshing morning wind was blowing, and the atmosphere still had some cool. I had taken “Luchis” with “Googhni” that mom had prepared. Though I had told her not to do anything, it was not easy to convince her. I personally feel that the Bengali parents are much more possessive about their children as compared to others. I don’t know whether I am right or wrong? Suranjan had packed some sandwiches, which proved out very handy for the breakfast.
05:50 AM> Reached Maharajpura. Waited for Tanmoy at the Chambal gate for about 10 minutes.
06:05 AM> Started for Malanpur. On the way came – Baretha’s Hanuman Mandir and many other (Laxmangarh etc.).
At Malanpur, we tried to inquire the locals about the location of the temples. Some of them looked at us, as if we are going to steal something from there. Some even asked, “why you people want to go there?” we failed to get the correct information and instead of moving left from Malanpur, moved towards Gohad. Just as we were passing through the Malanpur Industrial Area, Tanmoy’s cycle punctured. We started telling him, “hey! Man, you cannot maintain even a cycle properly. After the repair, we sat near the Cycle shop and had sandwiches. Then, we again moved on the same path that is towards Gohad. With repeated queries to the local whom we passed on our way, at last we found one fellow who knew very well about the Padhawali temples. He explained the whole route and possible halts on the way.
07:00 AM> Passed the Malanpur Industrial Area. Tanmoy’s cycle got punctured. Got it repaired at Malanpur and had our Breakfast there. Misled by few stupid, we lost our way and headed towards Gohad.
07:25 AM> Managed to get the location of the destination. We headed towards “Rithoura.” It was a never-ending travel with no hopes for reaching the ultimate point.
The journey from Malanpur to Rithoura Kalan through the industrial area was a less interesting and more exhausting one. We passed through many of the manufacturing units at the industrial area, and reached a railway crossing. Nearby was an office of Central warehousing Corporation, as much I can remember. From there, started the area of Village named “Rithoura Kalan.” We had a small break and smoke. In those days, smoking a full cigarette was a luxury and something he were not used to. We shared a cigarette “Wills – Navy Cut” and enjoyed the last string of tobacco it had. We used to say, “ abbe ghumane ki ho rahi hai” whenever any one had taken more than his allotted puffs.
07:45 AM> At Rithoura, the villagers gave us good idea about the Gadhi and with renewed zeal we started for “Padhawali”. On the way, we found an ancient temple. Stopped there for about 10 minutes. I got some snaps evoking picturesque locations and took a few photographs with my Canon.
On our way towards Padhawali village, what we can spot around were a few cattle, villagers, and some tractors. The road was a classic example of the Indian village road, with more potholes and less covered area. Even the patches were so badly made that it was rather better to cycle on the tracks near the road that pedestrian villagers had created. All of sudden, we had a sigh of relief, “oh! At last something has come.” It was a deserted temple just by the road. The temple was an old one with some devout follower painting it white with limestone. Moved around the temple and relaxed a bit. Suranjan drew our attention to a nearby well, full with water. I maintained a safer distance, as I can’t swim. I thought whether we find Padhawali or not, let’s take some pictures so that I can show them back home. Otherwise he would be laughed off surely for our misadventure, led by me. Having taken the pictures, I thought that at least I have something to say even if we failed to trace out Padhawali.
But, no I was wrong! Just after a few minutes, we were at a junction that had a signboard.
07:55 AM> Moved towards Padhawali. There were no signs of any historic monuments. But finally we saw, the “Sanrakshit Smarak” signboard, which gave us a true relief. We felt as we have got the result of about 41 kilometers of cycling.
The gate was open, but no one was there. We kept our cycles in shade and entered the temple through the high-rise stairs, guarded originally by lions on both side. But though one has been put in place the other lion was lying nearby. It was quite evident from the marks on the bastions and walls that the whole temple had survived till this day just because it was buried under soil for centuries. Just the way “Sphinx” had kept his vigil for centuries even being made of soft stone. Sphinx was buried in sand for centuries and because of that only the erosion due to wind has failed to take it over.
Inside the Gadhi we met the ASI monument attendant. He was very excited and surprised. The reason for that – at last he has got someone to talk to in the otherwise sleepy and deserted area. I can imagine how he would be earning his bread? A lonely area with a feeble not-so-friendly population and the vast emptiness of the ancient temple ruins with very few people visiting them. Alone with the responsibility of taking care of a precious National heritage. Not even knowing what is happening in the nearest town. Just imagine, doesn’t it sounds like “kaala Paani.”
It was like a good first shower after a long dry spell. He personally took us to all the areas of the fort – explored and Unexplored. “Actually earlier only a big temple existed here which was later dismantled to make the fortified smaller one that we have today,” he explained. Though he was not very sure about the origins, he tried to offer something.
He provided his “khatiya” for us to have lunch. He also arranged some fresh water to drink. In the meantime some other people have come. They had some official vehicles that drove us to conclude, “May be IAS officers.”
08:25 AM> Reached the Gadhi. We introduced ourselves as history students of MLB College. The caretaker was very much impressed and showed us all the “Gadhi,” telling us whatever he knew. Again I brought out my camera and took some photographs. After staying for some time there, we had our lunch. After the lunch, we went into the unexplored areas of the Gadhi.
What was straining my brain was, “why so many temples have been erected in such a remotely located place?” the caretaker has told us that in the initial assessment the ASI had put the number of temples at around 1400. Now I was thinking why a place like this? That has no major water bodies nearby, any fertile land. But, the sheer number of temples, small and big confirms that the area must have been a pilgrimage destination in those days. The statues inside the main mandap have an erotic appeal very much same as those at khajuraho. The main deity is seems was Durga, and Tantra might have been practiced.
Moved around the whole area. The bastions with well, the dynamite grinder, water storage tank, and many other things drew our attention. After the wander we had a small break and smoke. We had no plans to move any further, but our main concern was to cycle back to Gwalior, about 25 kilometers.
10:15 AM> We were about to start for Gwalior when one of the local villager told us that the temples at Batesar are a “must see” heritage. No one was ready as our energy cylinders are about to finish. I convinced both of them to go to the Batesar temples about 1 kilometer away from Gadhi.
Just as we moved out of the Gadhi, and went to a nearby hand pump, I asked a local fellow about the nearby Batesar temples. He provided me the push that I needed, but a more hurdle was still there. I made a successful attempt on convincing Suranjan and Tanmoy, and we started to drag our cycles through the piles of dust, that the miners had left towards the Batesar temples. On our way, we saw some foundations. I thought why don’t the ASI people excavate these areas. The miners nearby had started destroying some on them. But, now I can understand that how difficult it is to get the funds. We have a rich history, culture and a numerous monuments scattered all around the Country, but limited resources, and there are issues of larger significance.
Batesar was brilliant. As we moved towards the temples, nothing significant was visible. But, when we made our way through some trees, the temples made a sudden appearance. Most of them had a Shiva Lingam in them and there were about 200 of them in the area. There was a small pond with some water and stone steps. I suppose the pond was from the same time and devotees for a dip must have used it.
Our next halt was a lonely temple placed on high platform. Though the temple was in very bad shape, but it gave of glimpse of what it had been in its primetime. Intricately carved pillars with images of apsaras were an unparalleled visual treat. Stayed there for some time and enjoyed the overall aerial views that the temple offered. Waited for some more time, enjoyed a cigarette and saved a few for the return journey.
11:10 AM> After viewing the Batesar temples took some rest in a lonely placed temple in nearly shattered condition. At about 11:50 AM we started from Batesar. The very thought of driving (rather cycling) back to Gwalior was giving us fear.
Near Rithoura Kalan we met the same official vehicles that we saw at Gadhi. We were resting on a culvert as they passed by. They gave a strange look at us and moved ahead.
13:50 AM> We reached Malanpur and had a chilled bottle of “Cola” which we later found out was not a genuine one.
Again at Malanpur, the same vehicles again crossed us. We decided to have a bottle of Coca Cola.
After some hours of pedaling with tired legs, we reached Maharajpura. It was the “finish mark” for Tanmoy, but for me and Suranjan we had seven more kilometers to go.
14:55 AM> Dropped Tanmoy at the Chambal Gate at Maharajpura. I, and Suranjan then left for Surya Vihar Colony.
15:20 AM> Reached home. At the end of the travel all we had was – pain in all the body and some unforgettable memories of 11th and 7th Century.
Reached home, mom and didi were about to go to some wedding party in the evening. They asked me to accompany them, I said, “no way.” Had a bath and changed. Then, I thought of putting down in words whatever I had seen. Although the whole body was in pain but, still there was a sense of achievement. How many people go there? And how many can dare to go with cycles? Some childish egoistic thoughts kept on coming and going. The whole areas, the temples, the statues, everything that I had seen were moving around.
Part – II
Batesar – Mitawali Tour; 20 Oct 2000
This was my second visit to the Padhawali Area. Though we had covered the Batesar temples earlier, the hilltop temple at Mitawali was a new uncharted one. This may be termed as a much planned one, with more luxuries. We were about to start on Soumi’s scooter – BAJAJ cub, very old model, with every possible foodstuff to eat, a frozen bottle of water (1.5 litres), and a bottle of Gin (White Mischief). I think I missed the cigarettes. It was less of adventure and more of a picnic.
08:00 AM> Started from Pinto Park in Soumi’s scooter. Left for petrol pump, got some fuel and moved towards Maharajpura. All of us – Soumi (DRIVER), Suranjan, and myself – were on the same scooter. Just as we were passing through Maharajpura, we heard some “knocking” sound in the scooter. Suranjan, sitting in the rear, confirmed about something burning. We stopped at a nearby Auto Repair Shop for rectification.
I offered some idiotic explanation linking the knocking sound with the “Octane Number” of fuel. I said that we must have taken fuel with low Octane Number and that’s why this sound. But, Suranjan’s nose registered the problem differently. He alarmed, “something is burning, we better get it rectified, else it would cause trouble on the way”. That mechanic at Maharajpura tried to fool us, and made a comprehensive list of whatever he felt needs replacement.
08:45 AM> The Mechanic found out a lot of faults in the scooter. The shocker bracket and the oil regulator were malfunctioning. Changed those and moved forward. Now, the scooter was going smooth and we were hoping to reach our destination by 09:00 AM.
We asked him to do the bare minimum to make the scooter run smoothly. He did something and we moved ahead. By this time, our concerns regarding the high melting rate of the frozen bottle had already started to bother us.
09:10 AM> But we were wrong. Just as we reached Malanpur Railway Crossing, the scooter stopped. Soumi made some efforts but it didn’t started. We were about 2 kilometers far from Rithoura kalan, where we could hope to get the scooter repaired. There was a unanimous decision to move towards Rithoura.
From the railway Crossing, we walked while Soumi dragged the scooter in the famous “Gwalior Heat”. We were about 2 kilometers short of Rithoura kalan.
10:25 AM> Reached “Rithoura Kalan.” But there was no mechanic, who could do the needful. Someone told us, that only Rahish Khan could do this. We found him and requested him if he can do it for us. Rahish agreed and after about 1 hour, we left for Padhawali, not on legs but on the scooter.
This Rahish khan was initially reluctant to do it and tried to show how busy he is. But on constant pleadings, he agreed to help us. Though Rahish was a cycle mechanic, he was familiar with some basic aspects of motorbikes. He took his own time, applying the principles of “Hit & Trial” while we waited with no other options. The smoke kept on filling the atmosphere at regular intervals.
By this time, water in the bottle has already undergone a transformation of state. It had melted completely, and getting warmer with time. “What will happen to the plan?”
11:45 AM> Reached Gadhi, but we decided to move to Batesar first. Soumi placed his scooter under a tree and we climbed up to a lonely temple of 7th century. We had our lunch* there. Soumi and Suranjan waited in the temple while I climbed up the mountains to reach at the top of it. From there one can have a breath taking view of the whole area. Came back, Soumi took some photographs, and we left for Batesar temples.
Took our all the accessories, and laid some newspapers to sit on. The water has lost its chill; we decided to go ahead with the same. We turned a bit mischievous with WM. Soumi and Suranjan wanted to enjoy the feeling and stayed in there. Meanwhile I climbed up the nearby mountain.
13:45 AM> We were going all around the ruins of the old temples. There was an “amla” tree and we managed to get some amlas from the tree. Some sadhus were there – resting. I and Soumi moved into a sadhu babas temple. And then we climbed up to the top of a temple. Suji took the photograph. Left for the hand pump at the Gadhi for some water.
I don’t know how we made it but that was quite difficult to climb. We did it with ease while Suranjan decided to remain grounded. The temple itself looks as if it will crumble with the slightest of wind, but when we climbed it we found it sound enough to stay for another 10 years, assuming that it will remain untouched by restoration efforts of ASI.
15:30 AM> Reached the main road and moved towards “Mitawali”. There were two temples at Mitawali but one can have a great bird eye view from the Mitawali Paahar. Came back and started for Maharajpura.
Mitawali was very different from Gadhi and Batesar. It looked more like a “vihara” and less like a temple. It has a striking similarity with the Indian Parliament. I am very sure that Lutyen might have had a look at this monument before designing the Parliament.
It has rather simple architecture. A circular lobby with cells for player, each cell has a Shiva lingam in it. In the center, there’s a big Lingam, enclosed in a stupa. (Please have a look at the photographs)
16:20 AM> As we were coming back and we were just about to reach Malanpur, the petrol finished and again the scooter stopped. Somehow we managed to reach the Malanpur petrol pump, got some petrol, and had a cup of tea.
How we reached Malanpur that’s also an interesting story. We decided that two of us will sit on the scooter and the third will push it from back. But, how to be impartial about the distance one has pushed. Since it was an industrial area, there were streetlights at proper intervals, and that served as a reference. Every one will push the scooter with other two idiots on it for a distance of two poles. Then, one of the two sitting on the scooter will get down and push the other two.
Sound like a law of physics or like a protocol of physical experiments. Because of the well-maintained roads, we enjoyed the whole thing.
17:15 AM> We were on the way towards home. Reached Pinto Park safely. Had an “ADDA” in Suji’s home and then came back. But the trip had lacked the excitement, if there wasn’t Soumi’s scooter.
From Malanpur to Surya Vihar, the scooter behaved in a manner that was expected. Gathered for an evening “adda” at the Suranjan’s house. The trip had everything, though we started with more luxurious options, destiny had chosen something else. But, whatever it had kept for us, we enjoyed to maximum possible extent.
Text in BOLD: Original Text as written in Diary (2000) after the Journey.
Text in Normal: Inputs added while writing this blog.
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